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Presented by Michael Howe
Make the first cut 1/8" from line then go back and trim to the line
A good way to smooth the part is to use a 3M Wheel
Part edges are smooth after deburring. Use a Sharpie and mark the part number
Match drill the stiffeners to skin
Deburr the holes in the skin and stiffeners that you just drilled
If you are going to prime now prime the inside skin and stiffeners. There are quite a few different ideas on priming and you will want to read Van's recommendations in the manual. The prep for the skins is to first Scotch Brite the metal to scuff it and then clean it. For the class project we will use a self etching primer. Other types of primers will be discussed and you can make your own decision.
Dimple the skin holes for the stiffener using the "C" Frame
Another method to dimple the stiffeners is to put the dies in a squeezer and put the squeezer in a vise and "Squeeze the dimple. This method work anywhere the squeezer will allow you to reach the holes. You can also use the "C" Frame to do them.
If you want to keep the blue protective cover on as long as possible, use a soldering iron to score the area to be riveted and the protective blue will peel off along the line.
Back rivet the Stiffeners
Remove tape from rivets and check to see if all the rivets are flush.
Back drilling rib to spar using holes as a guide and using a long drill
After disassembling the Rib/Spar and deburring reassemble and drill to reinforcement plates
The Plans have the rivet callouts on them. Here you see 10 AN470AD4-4 Rivets will be used to rivet the reinforcement plates on.
Riveting the reinforcement plates
Drilling the skin to the ribs
Drilling skin to the spar using the holes in the skin as a guide.
Use temple to establish angle for drilling the trailing edge
Used the "C" Frame with dimple Dies to do holes in skin.
You can construct the special dimple bar shown in plans for the hard to get rib holes, or I prefer to use the vise grip dimple dies that are included in a lot of the RV builders kits available thru Avery or Cleveland. They work well in tight areas and I consider them one of my required tools.
To do the Spar Flange begin with the dimpling. Here I used my squeeze handles with dimple dies.
Finish by countersinking with micro stop countersink cutting deep enough for rivet
Here you can see the rivet flush with the top of the flange
Counter sink the trailing edge. This needs to be countersunk on both sides
Picture of holding fixture holding the part in place after the bottom skin is cleco on. Ready to rivet
Cleco on the bottom skin using the holding fixture built from the plans
Rivet the skin to the front spar
Squeeze the skin to rib rivets
Using special bucking bar to buck the last rivet on the rib.
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