| Page 11-7 |
| Step 1:
Secure the elevator in the "trail"
position by placing strips of duct tape over the gap between
the elevator counterbalance arm and the horizontal
stabilizer. |
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Step 2: Transfer the template shown in
Figure 1 to a piece of stiff cardboard or wood. (to avoid
cutting up your plans counterpunch through the paper just at
the 3 corners.)
Tighten the jam nuts against the threaded inserts.
Note: I made a photo copy of the page
to punch through as I did not want to do it through the
plans. Fortunate to have a copy machine next door in my
wife's office.
Adjust the rod end bearings on the F-1091 Elevator Pushrod
until the angle of the F-635 Bellcrank Assembly matched that
of the template as shown in Figure 2. |
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| Step 3:
Check to see that the length of F-1091 Elevator Pushrod
allow for some adjustment both ways in the rod ends. Do this
with the F-635 Bellcrank Assembly in its neutral position
and the elevator in trail. WARNING: IN THE FINAL
INSTALLATION BOTH ROD ENDS MUST HAVE OVER HALF THE THREAD
ENGAGED MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE FOR A BEARING TO BACK OFF THE
PUSHROD IF BOTH ENDS ARE PINNED.
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| Step 4:
Remove the duct tape added from step 1. Deflect
the elevator to the stops and check for any interference or
resistance in the system. |
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Step 5: Thread the AN316-6 jam
nuts onto the MD3614M rod end bearings and thread the rod
bearings into the R-1002 Rudder spar as shown in
Figure 3, Detail A. Measure from the center of the pivot
bolt hole to the forward face of the rudder spar. As a
starting point use the dimension shown in Figure 3, Detail
A. |
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Step 6: Bolt the rudder to the
vertical stabilizer using the hardware in Figure 4. The
rudder should swing freely. |
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Step 7: Check to see the rudder
travels 35 degrees. Do this by fixing elevators in the
"trail" (See Step1) position and then fully deflecting the
rudder. Note; Here is where I had me first major problem. It
would only deflect part way to the right. After looking
around I discovered I had put one of the rudder stops in
wrong. It would catch on the skin before reaching the 35
degrees deflection. It has three rivet hole and they will line up in the
wrong position so be careful. I had to drill the hinge off and drill all the rivets holding the stops and reposition it
and re-rivet it. |
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| Step 8:
Measure the clearance between the inboard trailing edge
of the trim tab and the adjacent rudder skin as shown in
Figure 5. When this dimension is approximately 2 3/16 " the
rudder travel is 35degrees and the R-1-7B Rudder Stop is
properly adjusted. the rudder stops were designed to allow
35 degrees of travel so a very little adjustment should be
necessary. Note: this was where it became obvious that
something was wrong. The measurement on the side that the
stop was installed correctly was right on and the one with
the incorrectly installed stop was way off |
Note: Since I had to pull
the rudder off the correct the stop problem I had in on a
table where I could use my protractor to measure the travel
between "trail" and contact with the stops, which I could
observe and they checked out correctly at 35 degrees. I will
check the trim tab to rudder skin distance when I put the
rudder on again. |
| Step 9:
Remove the empennage from the tailcone and store in a
safe place. The tailcone will be much easier to attach to
the fuselage without the empennage in place. |
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