MIKE HOWE'S RV7 CONSTRUCTION RIGHT ELEVATOR
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January 5, 2002

Laying out measurements for stiffeners. Right elevator stiffeners are 6" apart while the left elevator ones were 5 1/2"

 

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Laying out measurements for stiffeners.

January 8, 2002

One of the things I am starting to do is take the time to use the pop rivet dimple die to dimple the two  holes closest to the trailing edge, as it gives a better dimple. It is difficult to get them with the C Frame aligned properly and it sometimes distorts the metal around the holes.

Click for PDF enlargement

 

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Use Pop Rivet dimple die on forward holes

JANUARY 8, 2002

I decided to try a little different priming process on the right elevator. I have seen quite a few posting on the Yahoo page and the great primer debate rages on. I will describe how I am going to try from now on in the next few pictures. I called an old friend Roy Hansen at Hansen Marine who has maintained my old FiberForm Boat for a long time and he said they use this primer on boat parts that are aluminum and exposed to harsh environment in the water, and it holds up well, it is a OMC Zinc Chromate I am going to use it to spray all the small parts as it is easier to use. That way the part surfaces like where the stiffener and skin join on the inside of the skin will be already primed once. I will also spray a final coat of two part epoxy over the entire thing as a last step which make it look nice also. The primed parts get all scratched up if you prime them before you do  the drilling and riveting. In keeping with the prevailing trend to keep the protective cover as long as possible, I am going to try that also. Even though you are going to scuff it up to prime it eventually, it protects it as long as possible. I think it would help in keeping the part from getting some deep scratches which may have to be dealt with later by filling, from all the sliding around on the table and during the handling and dimpling process.

 

Different priming process

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JANUARY 10, 2002

Ready to back rivet Right Elevator, I primed the stiffeners and the area that will be underneath them with zinc chromate.

 

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Ready to back rivet Right Elevator

JANUARY 10, 2002

I have every thing ready going to do it in the morning. I like to lay everything I will need out, kind of like a little Japanese Tea Ceremony, everything in its proper place ready to go in the morning. It has been a long day getting it ready. I am starting to notice subtle little things, little a few dimples that were done without enough shims in the pneumatic tool and it dented the metal around the hole. You need to be careful dimpling the skin with the pneumatic tool. A light tap with the C-Frame seems to make a better dimple. I have pretty much decided to do my left elevator over because of the bad looking trim tab. There were some great suggestions on the discussion group today on how to bend the tabs, and I will try to link to them soon if anyone has not done it by now, it is must reading.

 

 

Ready to rivet in the morning, 

ReadyRivetREL1.JPG (49761 bytes)

JANUARY 10, 2002

The  can spray primer is still not working out very well. The problem with the epoxy primer were the guns I had  were to big and put to much paint on, so I bought a small detail gun and you can mix much smaller batches of primer. I Think I am going to try the Alodine etch first and then spray the epoxy primer and have ordered some from AircaftSpruce. The little gun works very well for small parts. I really like the gravity feed guns with the material above the gun better than the siphon feed. The one I bought is an Astro brand and was about $100.00

 

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Small Paint Gun

JANUARY 19, 2002

Switched to full anodizing method before priming

I Alodined the Spar parts prior to priming. It definitely adds to the time involved in prep work. It seems like after you do a batch or two it just becomes part of the process and you don't notice it too much. There are probably a lot of acceptable methods from good to best and I think it is generally accepted that this way will give the maximum result in protection. Clean with MEK, then clean with AlumiPrep, and brush on alodine. Follow directions for each step on bottle.

 

Alodined the Spar parts prior to priming

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JANUARY 19, 2002

Parts Alodined and ready to prime with epoxy primer.

 

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Parts Alodined and ready to prime with epoxy primer.

JANUARY 19, 2002

Ready to rivet right elevator spar

 

Ready to rivet right elevator spar

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JANUARY 20, 2002

Roger from Alaska drops in for some training to build airplane. Spar and horn riveted, put back in skin, and ready for riveting.

See expanded picture click here

 

JANUARY 23, 2002

I am finishing up riveting in the spar on the right elevator. I popped for the no holes yoke and this is the first time I have had a chance to use it in tight places like the last two or three trailing edge rivets, it works great, although I probably won't use it a lot it sure is nice when you need it and I am sure it will come in handy again.

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Using the no hole yoke

JANUARY 23, 2002

I used a short piece of wood 1" wood dowel which allowed me to grab both ends of it with the vise grips. I bent it one section at a time

Click here for PDF picture

 

Bending edge

WoodRollL.JPG (66164 bytes)

JANUARY 25, 2002

Right elevator completed and put in storage box

 

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Right elevator completed and put in storage box