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November
18, 2001
The blue
protective cover started to pull away so the dark blue tape is
some fine line masking tape to hold it down. I got tried of the
hand Deburr and wrapped some masking tape around the threads of
the deburring bit to protect the threads and put it in my
rechargeable drill, it go much faster with a light pressure.
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Using my
rechargeable drill made the deburring go much faster |
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November
18, 2001
Dimpled the VS
skin using pneumatic squeezer on the edges ands C frame on the
inside holes
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| Dimpling
the VS Skin using C frame and Pneumatic squeezer |
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November
18, 2001
Used some cut up
coat hangers to hold the parts while I primed them.
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Cut up
coat hangers to hold the parts while painting |
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November
18, 2001
Using the clothes
hangers, I hung the parts to dry on the Jig
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Drying
parts |
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November
18, 2001
Tape 12
AN-426-AD4-6 rivets in the holes at the bottom of the spar
and back rivet the VS-808 to the VS-803
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November
18, 2001
The 12 rivets back
riveted, the other holes attach the VS-410PP and require a
AN-426-AD-7 rivet and are done also by back riveting
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Back
riveting spar |
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November
18, 2001
Use AN426-AD4-7 to
attach the VS-610 hinge brackets and back rivet
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Attach
VS-610 to spar |
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November
19, 2001
I used the
Longeron Yoke to squeeze the rivets along the spar. It allows you
to reach over flanges better
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Squeezing
rivets using Longeron Yoke |
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November
19, 2001
Assembled skeleton
and riveted it together and shot a final coat of primer over
everything, hung it on the jig plumb bob cable to dry.
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| Riveted
skeleton and shot final coat of primer |
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November
19, 2001
Skeleton is
drilled, dimpled, primed and riveted together. Put back into the
jig to rivet skin.
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Skeleton
in jig for skin riveting
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November
19, 2001
Skins clecoed on
to the skeleton, ready to rivet next week
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Skins
clecoed |
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November
20, 2001
Skins clecoed on
to the skeleton, ready to rivet tonight
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Waiting
for Teryval to get here to start riveting. |
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November
20, 2001
Finishing edges using
pneumatic
squeezer. The arrangement of the spar being clecoed to the hinges
on the jig makes it very easy to rotate the piece into any
position and makes it easy to find the best position to work on
it. The VS is turning out very nicely and looks good, the learning
curve is working and it was much easier to do than the HS. The
feel and sounds of the rivet gun are becoming understood.
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The
piece will rotate in the jig
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November
20, 2001
Though I didn't
see this on the plans it was suggested from the Orndorff video you
may want to install some electrical things, like a strobe light on
top of the rudder, install a couple on snap plugs and a wire or
string inside that runs between the top and bottom rib, so you
could use it to pull the electrical wiring after the skin is
riveted shut. I just used some
dental floss left over from the jig rigging.
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Snap
plug for pulling wiring if desired |
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November
23, 2001
Small mistake punching
extra hole in skin! No problem with this metal colored epoxy
filler, which looks like aluminum paste, just add catalyst
and mix well.
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I
accidentally punched a small hole in the skin while dimpling, time
to drag out the Bondo. Actually there are some very good catalyzed
fillers if not applied to thickly. I remember using this one
called metal-2- metal back when I was building Porsche fenders out
of the stuff in my auto days. Make up some little cardboard
pallets and mix a small amount putting a little catalyst in
and mixing well. |
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November
23, 2001
Use a spreader( I
just used a little 6 inch steel ruler that was handy and cleaned
it good after) and
fill the hole
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thin coat and it will fill hole and will sand lightly later |
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November
23, 2001
Bucking rivets in
hard to get to places starts to become a challenge to find the
right bucking bar. I searched my tools and tried these Chisels,
they fit in some tight places and you can use the machined surfaces
(being Snap-On) which
has a nice finish and they have some heft to them and seem to work
well after you move them around a bit to get used to them.
Inventing tools as you go can be fun. I would be glad to start a
Tips for Tools page to the site if any of you out there
have pictures or diagrams of things that you have made and have worked for you.
Email them to me at mikemb@aros.net
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Using
the edges of my Snap On chisels for bucking bar |
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November
23, 2001
The final rivets
in the VS. Again having the piece in a jig where it will rotate
around to different positions and getting the work where you
have good access is much easier than being a contortionist bending
around ,kneeling down to get at things. It is easier to do a good
job when you are comfortable. I move the work in several different
positions to get the best access. I find sitting in my little
scoot around chair puts me in a good place and height a lot of the
times and sure saves the feet.
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Need
to have a little ceremony marking the last rivet on the VS,
actually not the last because you were supposed to leave 6 on each
side of the bottom rib to attach the fairing later, so this
picture might be to late, get out the drill. |
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November
23, 2001
Here it is
"stabilizing" the work table, it sure is pretty!
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