Step 1- Cleco the VA-146 Flange Bearing between the two HS-911 Inboard Hinge Brackets as shown in Figure 1. Final-Drill the six holes in common to all the parts with a #30 drill and the two 3/16" holes in the flange with a #12 drill.

Disassemble, deburr, scuff the powder coat of the hinge brackets if desired, and reassemble.

Rivet the assembly together with the rivets shown in the two hinge brackets to something flat to make sure that they remain square to each other while riveting.

Step 2- Bolt the inboard hinge bracket assembly to the rear spar assembly using the hardware shown in Figure 2. Use the correct torque on the nuts per the chart in Section 5. 9 ( Note- Chart shows 20-25 inch lbs for AN3 hardware)

Nice to have a good Snap on Torque Wrench

I have been using a little dab of torque seal. That should verify the bolt has been torqued and if it start to loosen you should be able to see it.

Step 3- Using the dimensions in the Figure 3, make the HS-1008L Left Front Spar Attachment Bracket from the length of AA-6-187x2x2-1/2 angle provided in the kit.

Cutting first cut with band saw

Smoothing on the 3-M Wheel

Brackets finished and drilled

Step 1 Trim material shaded areas from both ends of the two HS-1013 Front Spar Caps, the HS-1014 Long stringer, and the HS-1015 Short Stringer as shown in Figure 1. The parts are shown unbent in the figure for clarity. Use the notches in the parts to determine the trim line and note in the figure that the trim line completely remove the notches.

Step 2- The HS-1013 spar caps are nested in the corners of the HS-1002 Front Spar with the trimmed flange of the spar cap resting against the spar web.  On one of the spar caps,  make a mark on the flange (the one that rests against the flange of the spar) a quarter of an inch from either end. Nest the spar, then, from the corresponding end of the spar, center the mark in the thirty-third flange hole. Just for a check, make sure the other end of the spar cap covers the thirty-third hole in the other end of the spar flange.

Clamp the spar in place, then match drill the 1/8" holes of the spar web into the entire length of the spar cap with a #30 drill. The spar cap is somewhat bowed as supplied, so use plenty of clamps to make sure the spar cap is tight against the spar web and flange while drilling. Remove the spar cap, deburr the holes of the spar and spar cap, then cleco the spar cap back in place. It's important to deburr and clean out any chips, otherwise the spar cap won't fit tight against the spar web when match-drilling the spar flange holes.

Clamp the spar cap to the flange of the spar, then match-drill the 3/32" drill.

Step 3- Deburr and smooth the edges of the HS-1007 Front Spar Doubler and the HS-1000-L and -R Front Spar Attachment Brackets, then cleco them to the HS-1002 Front Spar as shown in the figure.

Step 4- Clamp something flat to the bottom of the HS-1008-L and-R Front  Spar Attachment Brackets to keep them square to each other, then match drill the eight holes of the spar and spar doubler into the attachment brackets with a #30 drill. Cleco a few of these holes, remove the original single cleco and final drill with the same drill

Match drill the four 3/16" holes in common to the spar and spar doubler into the HS-1013 Front Spar Caps with a 3/16" drill then a #12 drill..

Match-Drill the four 3/16" holes common to the spar and spar doubler into the HS-1013Front Spar Caps with a 3/16" drill, then final-drill the holes with a #12 drill

Step 6- Machine countersink the eight holes of the HS-1007 Front Spar Doubler (see figure) for 1/8" flush rivets.

  Step 8- Mark the parts, disassemble , deburr, prime if desired, then reassemble the parts in their original position

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