MIKE HOWE'S RV7 CONSTRUCTION HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
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October 15, 2001 |
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Attaching the HS-606 rib to the rear spar using strips of .032 aluminum strips to simulate skin |
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October 16, 2001 |
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| A close up of using strip to simulate skin and center the HS-606 rib, Drill and cleco the spar to the rib. | |
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I overfluted the rib and it bent to far the other way, and it says it is OK to use the seemer to reduce the size of some of the flutes, I can see fluting is a trial and error thing. The only rib that seems to need fluting is the end HS-606's the other seem OK |
| Cut out ply wood to build tool that will hold skin to skeleton when drilling. I decided I need a new sander. Starting to spend great deal of time at Sears, I am afraid I have about convinced myself I need a small table saw. Dug out my old saber saw and bought new supply of blades, so there is one tool I won't have to buy. | |
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Trial to fit the skeleton in jig, it seems to fit nicely |
| I put the skins in to check the alignment and how the prepunched holes lined up. I am really starting to appreciate the quality of Van's Kit and how well every thing matches perfectly on the skins. Yes I did take the blue stuff off the one side and I wish I hadn't now as it is starting to get get scratched up. The prevailing wisdom seems to be to leave it on and then just cut away the area that needs to be worked on (dimpled or riveted) I plan on doing that with the rest of the skins. | |
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Every thing seems to be lining up OK. Checking plumb on the line of rivet holes. |
| Well, I finally talked myself in to it and went down the Sears again and bought a small table saw, and some lumber and hinges to make the bending brake for the control surface trailing edges. |
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Trial fit clothespin, Notice the one furthest away I put the foam tape completely around it as the one with the tape just in the center pulls away when you push it on. |
| I was concerned how the rib would align with the skin, so I just drilled a couple of holes to check and pulled the skin away before drilling all the holes the holes seem to center on the rib very well. |
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I pulled the skins completely off and rechecked everything for plumb and drew center lines on all the ribs and spars so you can see them through the prepunched holes to see if they align, so far so good. |
| Started drilling and clecoing skin to ribs going up the center rib, and then drilling the outer ribs moving up the skin. I bought a little of the cedar shims at Home Depot you use in installing household doors and they work rather nicely. The shims help tighten the fit of the skin to the spar and ribs, | |
| The first side of HS drilled and clecoed, Some issues did arise, Like I did not find a lot of information on when and how to position the HS-607 (Middle Forward Rib) for drilling, and found you must be real careful in putting the skin over it or it will bend out of position. There were a couple of things I wish I had done better, but I won't tell. Such things are best left to contemplate when you are actually flying the plane, Preferably at night, in turbulence, over the Rocky Mountains with the engine running in auto rough, and wonder if I should have redone a couple of those rivets. | |
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Both sides drilled and clecoed |
| I very lightly scored the blue protective cover with a razor, it pulls away nicely and does not even mark the skin, which will be Sanded later anyway | |
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Front spar holes after drilling, looks OK |
| I read on one of the website tips to use a piece of pegboard to put the pieces on when spring primer on small parts, as the air goes through the holes and the parts don't blow around, good tip is works. | |
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October 26, 2001
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Inside of HS skin primed |