MIKE HOWE'S RV7 CONSTRUCTION LEFT ELEVATOR
Second time around
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January 20, 2002

I am try to be a little more drawing out the measurements. Remembering back to the high school when they said that  mechanical drawing class would come in handy some day well I remembered how to tape the paper or in this case the skin, get it nice and square with a T square, and tape it down, which helps keep it from moving all over the place.

Measuring out the lines for the stiffeners.

January 25, 2002

My friends Ferney and Jennifer dropped by at night and helped me drill some holes in the spar reinforcement plates.

January 25, 2002

Two copies of Illusions arrived today on special order from Barnes and Noble after I had given my last copy away, so I can proceed with the second time build of the Left elevator spar. I am sure these copies will be given away at some point. Check out page 92.

January 25, 2002

I back riveted the plate nuts to the E-615PP first. then rivet the E-615PP to the skin. The first left elevator I did them all at once and had trouble getting the plate nuts heads flush because there was a little lip between the plate and the skin.

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I back riveted the plate nuts to the E-615PP first. then rivet the E-615PP to the skin.

January 25, 2002

 The rivets turned out nice and tight. I am much happier with the way the rivets looks the second time build, I feel like I am starting to get a much better feel for back riveting.

Inspection cover reinforcement plate riveted to the skin.

January 25, 2002

Bent the trailing edge using a 1/8" wood dowel rod for the bend radius.

Bend trailing edge

January 25, 2002

Picture of 1/8" dowel at the trailing edge.

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Picture of 1/8" dowel at the trailing edge.

I bought some plastic rain gutter and end caps from Lowe's and cut off a 4" section sealed the ends and poured the alodine in to make a bath. Put in the part for a minute or two and it coats very well. Pour the Alodine back in the bottle for storage. I tired to put a little plug where to see the leak, but it didn't work to well and am going to seal it up. It is easier just to scoop it up in a plastic cup and use a funnel to pour it in the bottle.

Alodine Bath

Put the parts on a plastic grate on top to drain, rinsed off worked very well and gave a good even coating

Alodined trim spar

Spar primed back in jig to drill the control horn and counterbalance skin. I put the inspection plate on and tightened the screw. On the first one I wanted to mention that I had a great deal of difficultly in tightening the screws. The nut plates are pinched at the end, to do there job and keep the nuts tight, but I forgot there is a Reed & Prince screwdriver that has a different head and I used it and stripped the heads (Which are Philips). I was unable to get them in all the way and was ruining the heads as they are brass and quite soft.I went down and invested in a good box of Porter & Cable screw driver tips and dug out my old Snap-On Screw Driver and they went on effortlessly. The right tool for the job makes a big difference and you need a good screw driver set with a variety of tips

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Left elevator ready for control horn and counterbalance drilling

JANUARY 26, 2002

You need good selection of the right screw driver tips. I remember wincing at the price of Snap-On tools but have never regretted buying one later as they are definitely a joy to use. The ratchet type handled made easy work of installing the cover plate screws. You are going to need good screwdrivers along the way.