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MIKE
HOWE'S RV7 CONSTRUCTION WINGS
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February
14, 2002
Decided to get out
the woodworking tools and construct the wing and tank cradle.
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Wing
Storage Construction |

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February
17, 2002
I have spent the last couple of
days getting the wing cradle built, added a couple of extra things
like the handles on the end and put some swivel castors on, which
work real well in moving it around. |

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End1 |
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February
17, 2002
A picture of the other end, the
notches on the top are where the spar will rest and is notched to
keep it from slipping off.
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End2 |

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February
18, 2002
Did some work on preparing
ribs, very tedious but has to be done. Used the die grinder with a 3M
wheel to deburr the inside of the holes in the ribs, fluted, and
smoothed all the edges.
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Deburr
holes |
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February
18, 2002
Cleaned ribs with MEK, Alumiprep,
got out alodine setup and applied the alodine treatment
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Prep
Ribs |

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February
18, 2002
Cut up some clothes hangers and
made hooks to hang the ribs after I prime them tomorrow I hope.
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Ready
to prime |
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February
19, 2002
Primed the wing
ribs, with white primer
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Primed
the wing ribs, with white primer |

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February
20, 2002
I started looking
for the PN726 and could not find them. You find out that it is one
of those parts you will need to make yourself. You are supplied
with a Aluminum bar, PN AB4-187X1 1/4X12. Measurements are on
insert on page 15A.
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Fabricate
PN 726 |
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February
20, 2002
Down to Sears,
bought a 1" hole cutter and mandrel. It worked OK, not the
most precision hole but will do. It creates quite a mess and needs
that needs to be cleared up right away.
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Cut
1" hole |

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February
20, 2002
A little 3M on the grinding wheel
and die grinder and a finished spacer. |

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W-726
Spacer |
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February
20, 2002
Another little item you will have
to fabricate, While at Sears bought a 3/8 X 16 tap and tap handle
which you use to tap a hole 1" deep.. You need to tap the
hole where the tie down eye bolt goes, which is an accessory you
can buy from Van's catalog.
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Tie
Down Bracket |

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February
20, 2002
Put out the AN hardware needed
for tie down bar. I needed to learn the system for identify the AN
numbering system by measuring the parts (bolts, etc.) I found a
good calculator on AircraftSpruce which has a great website. It
shows the description and material that the different types
of hardware are made from, and is a great source to learn the
specs on things. This is where I learned what the A or H after the
number on an AN bolt means and how to measure the length of them
You can find similar information on rivets, nuts, washers, etc by
clicking their link.. This website has a great directory that is
easy to use. I
will list the link with an example to identify AN bolts. From the
home page click the hardware link-the bolts link-the AN link and
there is the calculator as well as the shopping cart. Click
here for their home page.
Click
here for PDF enlargement and additional details of the picture
below
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Locating
tie down bar hardware |
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February
25, 2002
The tie down reinforcement is
turning in to quite a bit of work. The plans read use a
positioning hole at 1/2" and 15/32 " at the top
right to drill, then put a bolt through it and back drill the rest
of the holes through the bar and the spacers using a 3/16ths
drill, that is how I read it. |
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Hole in reinforcement bar |

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February
25, 2002
After I drilled all the holes I
slipped a short bolt through the spacer and the bar and used the
holes in the plate nut for a template for the rivet holes
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Plate
nut used for template |
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February
25, 2002
Prepped metal, Alodined and check
for fit. Will shoot 2 Part epoxy primer over it and a coat over
the rear spar soon. Also a screw up here I did not discover until
I tried attaching the aileron bellcrank bracket. If you look close
at the bottom left plate nut it has the wrong hole size in it, had
to drill it out and replace it with the correct one. I did not
really think about it, but just grabbed a platenut out of bin that
looked like it had the right rivet pattern, but the K-1000-3 which
is the correct one takes a AN3 bolt , while the K-1000-06 takes a
#6 screw, the rivet pattern is the same and they look very similar.
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Reinforcement
plate finished |

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February
26, 2002
Got out the old Snap-On torque
wrench from the lawnmower shop days. It is really nice to have
kept some of my old tools that I wondered if I was ever going to
use again. There is nothing better than the feel of a high quality
tool in your hands. When
I called Avery about the last countersink I bought I asked if
there was any other things RV builders are using and they told me
the Torque Seal. It is the orange stuff and when you get your nut
tightened to the proper value put a dob of it between the nut or
bolt and the surface, and it marks that the bolt is tightened to
the proper value and if the alignment moves at some later
time when you are inspecting things you can readily see the seal
has been broken
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Torque
the reinforcement and aileron bell crank bolts to the proper value.
20-25 inch lbs for AN3 bolts. |
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February
26, 2002
Some more of the old tools I dug
out were these nut drivers. They work real well in getting things
started and partially tightened. The torque seal is on the bolts,
I guess this is how it is supposed to be applied, as I have not
used it before.
Note watched the
Orndorff video and they suggested putting the bellcrank on the
brackets before tightening these bolts, then putting on the whole
assembly, so see next picture, I had to take the brackets off
because the bolt would be hard to get through because the
spar flanges are in the way.
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Aileron
bellcrank bracket side |

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February
25, 2002
Need to prepare the brass bushing
by drilling to clean the hole so the bolt will go through. Click
here to see detail for amount of the brass bushing needs to
extend beyond the steel bell crank tube and the hardware to use.
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Get
the bell crank prepared to mount on the brackets. |
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to Page 5 |
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