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October 27, 2001 |
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Skins have been put on skeleton and holes drilled, removed and I shot one more good coat of DP 50 over entire skeleton. Put back in jig to dimple holes. |
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October 27, 2001 |
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| Dimpling the skin using the Avery C Frame for the holes in the middle where the pneumatic tool won't reach. Wrestling with the C frame till you get used to it, it seems like you kind of figure it out after awhile, but the first time is like two left hands. Again be very careful and be sure to hold the rod down with one hand, if it slips out of the hole you have a nice little hole in the skin, bring out the bondo. | 
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Using the pneumatic dimpler along the edges |
| Using Pneumatic dimpler along skeleton parts, using this now I am glad I made the extra investment, which at the time I didn't know if it was worth it. It is worth it. You need to be very careful with it because if it slips out of the hole it will punch a hole right through the skin and thru your finger I am sure if it is in the road. Lessons learned the hard way, I will try to write up some of the problems I incurred if I can get the time. | 
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Finally, like what seems the upteenth time the skin has been off the skeleton, it is primed, dimpled and ready to rivet. The little roll around chair which I had saved from my mothers estate has never been used much, but now it is a lifesaver on my feet. It is nice to just roll around while working on something in the jig and it puts you just at the right height. |
| OOps, checking all the blue prints and overlooked to trim away part of the HS-606 rib to make clearance from the tip, it says to trim leaving a least a 3/16th distance from the hole center to the edge, see detail B, which is a small excerpt drawing from the plan. It would be impossible to trim it away after the skins were riveted, so off with the skin one more time | 
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I guess this is what they a talking about, notice the indented part of the fiberglass tip needs to slide all the way to the rib. I guess you could trim some of the fiberglass off, if you forgot to trim the rib, but it is much easier to trim the rib. |
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October 28, 2001 |
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| I enlisted Teryval to help with the bucking. I had worked with her at Mowers and Blowers my old store during last year's lawnmower tune-up season and she is now the main small engine mechanic at the shop and a real fine mechanic. I was very happy the way our first rivets looked and she caught on to the bucking very fast. | 
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About to shoot the very first skin rivet, and I was kind of scared, Teryval and I did a few on a test strip and got the gun adjusted just right at about 60PSI and it went very smoothly. I had some trouble with the new gun and again I can't say enough about their good service and help from the Avery Folks, they talked me through some stuff and I was able to get it working OK. |
| The Top right skin about half done, Teri Val is going to help me again on finishing the forward rib and start on the bottom side which looks more difficult as you need to pull the skin back to get at the rivets. The Orndorff video suggests to use a very light turn in the dimpled hole with the deburring tool to put the proper angle on the rivet face. It makes the rivet seat very well, sort of like lapping in a valve. Also I have watched their video a couple of times on the rivet sequence. If you you rivet the wrong skin it is like painting yourself into a corner, and getting to the rivet will be hard if not impossible, so you need to think. | 
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October 30, 2001 |
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We finished the left HS skin, Teryval dimpling the edge of the right HS skin |
| I just couldn't wait to see the nice shiny skin, so after riveting the top I pulled if off. I think everything looks pretty good so far. Teryval is coming over on Monday and we should finish the HS | 
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About to squeeze the final few rivets on the HS |
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HS finished |
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